Way out there; Authentic Moais; Wrong Way Moai

 I left Atacama and flew to Easter Island by way of Calama and Santiago.  When I tell people that I am going to Easter Island, they invariably had 2 reactions: “Isn’t that where those heads are?”  And “That’s way out there “ wherever “there” is.  But yes it is way out there being 5 hours by plane from Santiago. I and my 300 fellow passengers felt a little bit like latter day Magellans as we made ourselves comfortable on the Boeing 767 for the unexplored trip into the vast Pacific 

Like everyone, I was anxious to see the Heads (Moai) when I got to Rapa Nui as we natives call it.  And I soon saw some authentic ones.  I didn’t realize they came in so many sizes and materials-

Upon arrival, I signed up for a tour of the most significant Moai sites on the island where they apparently had some large stone replicas of the above. As part of the Rapa Nui full employment act, you must have guide to visit the Moai sites, hike small volcanoes, bike to your hotel or go to the bathroom.  

In any case I did visit some replicas of the genuine Moai I saw at the trinket shop and they were indeed a “wow “-

These replicas are much more impressive in person than on TV or in any picture.  When we visited Tongoriki- the 14 Moais standing on a Ahu (platform for those not fluent in the Rapa Nui language)- I really was awed and felt that I was looking at one of the world’s great sites.  Notice that per Rapa Nui custom they all have their backs to the sea  

We visited the site where 99% of the Moai were mined and carved, though many were transported miles away  This site was great as you could walk quite close to the Moai and even see the last ones lying amidst the rocks waiting to be finished.  

 According to our guide, the last ones were carved around 1790 and the first ones 2000+ years before.  You see the remains of the Moai throughout the island though many hundreds are apparently buried.  

Speaking of my guide, he was very much into Rapa Nui politics and perceived injustices deriving from Chilean rule, which seemed fairly light to this casual observer.  But he felt quite aggrieved and oppressed by the whole thing, notwithstanding the Rapa Nui guide full employment act.  I asked him how many people lived on Rapa Nui and he said “all in, including interloping Chileans seeking work, about 9000.  I felt like I was listening to inside Boxborough, MA politics.  He pointed out the Rapa Nui “Parliament “ building as we assed by which looked like a cross between a run down cafe and a souvenir shop. 

Be that it may, we visited a site where the Moai were facing the sea- 

There’s just one inflexible rule in Rapa Nui as applies to Moai- you have to have your back to the sea!  Different sizes shapes etc, fine.  Just one simple rule- back to the sea.  These 7 Moai bungled it   There’s always some Moai that just don’t get the word.  Communication Moai!