Google Maps

 I journeyed back to Muscat from the central mountains and saw some interesting things along the way- 

I forgot to mention but on departing the airport after arriving in Muscat I was almost immediately pulled over by one of Muscat’s finest.  I was perplexed as I wasn’t speeding or doing anything else wrong that I was aware of (I had barely left the airport).  As I have experience with these stops (eg Argentina), I employed my time tested strategy of playing it as dumb as possible (some will say this comes quite naturally) 

The conversation went something like this- 

Officer:  “Something in Arabic or Omani or whatever  

Me:  “Huh?  What?  No Omani whatsoever “

O: “Problem   License”  

M:  “Huh?  What??  Problem?”

O:  “This is not Omani license “

M:  “Huh?  What?  Omani license?  Well no.  American license   Very good license “  

O:  “Was following you   Phone   Problem “

M:  “Huh?  What problem with phone?  Wasn’t calling anybody. Who would I call?  Was just using Google maps to get to my hotel. I just got to Oman sort of by mistake  it is a bit of a long story officer.  You see I was trying to avoid the war.  Now I don’t whose side you favor but I….”

O:  Shakes his head  “Problem with phone”  

M:  “No problem  Google Maps!”

O:  “Huh?  What?”

M:  sensing a solution and raising my voice-  “Google Maps!!!  Google Maps!!!

O:  Looks at me perplexed   “Huh?!  (Or equivalent in Arabic)

M:  “Google Maps to hotel!!!  Google Maps!!”  I shout sensing  I have stumbled upon the magic words  

With resigned look on his face  he hands me my license and says “Go”  

“Peace be upon you officer” I say and speed off while looking down at Google Maps  

The Arabian Grand Canyon and Highest Mountain

I wasn’t aware of it but Oman seems a bit of a tourist hub-

In any case. I threw my carry on luggage in the back and squeezed myself into my 8 seat rented 4x4 (the smallest I could get) and motored off to the mountainous center of the country and Wadi Ghul, the so called Arabian Grand Canyon.  Along the way I passed some beautiful mosques and ancient forts 

Inside one of the forts, I discovered an unusual small museum dedicated to -

A bee and honey museum inside a medieval fort?  The logic escaped me and no explanation was provided tho you could buy honey inside (maybe some sort of concession to the local beemaster)  

My pictures do it no justice as I found it hard to capture Wadi Ghul’s staggering size and depth and, while I would not say it is equal in grandeur to the GC, it is truly not far off and deserves its moniker.  

I decided to hike Jebel Shams, a mountain which overlooks Wadi Guhl and the highest mountain on the Arabian Peninsula at about 9930’.  Some views from the top- 

  I am not sure it was my wisest decision on this trip as my lodge host told me that 12 hours was a good estimate for the round trip. I figured that has to be an exaggeration or for slow hikers  but actually it was not far off for the 13 miles and 4000+’ of total elevation gain in the Arabian heat , including up and down some ridges.  The broken terrain made it hard for me to go very fast and I did notice vultures constantly circling above me.  I did not appreciate their seeming lack of confidence in my return. 

Met few people on my hike but plenty of these- 

 

They were not much for conversation though.

A few people evidently peered a little too far over the edge- 

But the hike- which took you along the edge of the canyon- did offer some spectacular views (if one had the fortitude to step up to the edge and peer at the river thousands of feet below)   Really magnificent and while few Americans know of it or visit, many Europeans come here to see it.  And if you start late enough you can a great Arabian sunset-

A Large Rug; Dune Bashing and Arabian Nights

 I arrived in Muscat, Oman from Dehli without incident. I have to say their airport was one of the nicest and cleanest airports I have ever been to and their passport officials unusually friendly, efficient and helpful. 

The next day I visited the Grand Mosque of Muscat which I must say is an impressive structure. It reportedly features the 2nd largest handmade Persian rug in the world (Dubai has biggest) which reportedly took over 400 weavers years to make (if you are the Sultan of Oman, money isn’t a big object)- 

In Persian rugs, I like to say that quantity has a quality all its own. 

I left Muscat and drove to a desert camp in the west of the country. I was seeking an authentic no frills Bedouin experience- similar to my Nepal trekking activity- and I am pleased to say the camp met my expectations -

The camp featured sand boarding down a dune where my form might not yet be Olympic ready- 

Camel riding (naturally)- 

And this thing they call dune bashing where you ride on the side board of a jeep and the driver blasts through the dunes at up to 40 mph while you hold on for dear life sans seatbelt (the chatter you hear in the video is from a guy on the other side reproaching his daughter)- 

It was fun in a near suicidal way.  Before going, I thought it prudent to make friends with my driver- 

For some reason you are supposed to jump up as they take  a photo of you at sundown in the desert. Not sure if genuine Bedouins do that every night but whatever. When in Rome-  

The Arabian desert is starkly beautiful- 

On my way to my next place, I literally crossed several streams - 

Cheaper than bridges I suppose. I noticed one enterprising fellow using the crossing to save a few rial from a pot he car wash- 

Next stop is the so called Arabian Grand Canyon and the highest mountain in the Arabian Peninsula  

Wild and Woolly Katmandu: Hippy Temple; Mt Everest

 Katmandu is a lively, busy, crowded (but not India crowded), gritty, polluted and sometimes whimsical Asian city with the ubiquitous motorbikes flying everywhere as seems typical in Southern and Eastern Asia.  I think they retained the same electrician as Dehli- 

Maybe he got run out of Dehli and landed In Katmandu . 

In their central square, they have numerous ancient Hindu  temples including one nicknamed the Hippy Temple from the ancient 1960s and 70s when hippies used to congregate around it and smoke prodigious amounts of weed- 

Alas, as in Pai, the hippies have decamped (or have been decamped) to less mystical climes, tho some vestiges of their former presence remain- 

 You see shops selling singing bowls everywhere in Katmandu (and Pokhara) tho I never heard one sing a note- 

According to a tour guide, there are a number of different Hindu gods that people pray to, including this one dedicated to recovering from a hangover (ie beer god)

Seems appropriate somehow 

On my tour. I encountered some Nepali youths sitting where the hippies used to reside and my strange but welcome rock star status seemed to continue-

I noticed that you can fit more on a bicycle in Katmandu than you can in America- 

Katmandu has all sorts of establishments, many with interesting names  

Some sell fancy stuff- 

While others offer great deals if you will only go inside-

Well I took an early morning “mountain flight” where it the weather cooperates you can see Mt Everest and many other high Himalayan peaks   As it was raining in Katmandu, I wasn’t overly optimistic as I made my way to the airport in my $4 cab   But- 

Yeah the highest mountain in the world (the triangle peak)

While the pictures aren’t the best as they were shot through a window, some of the otter high peaks- 

That 60 minute flight was a major Wow  Truly my best flight ever.  

Now, on to Muscat and the sand dunes, nights and Grand Canyon.m of Arabia.