A 2* visitor to 5* wineries

After my latest hiking adventure (debacle), I decided to return to the comfort of cycling to wineries in the famous Stellenbosch area (about 20 miles from Franschoek which is considered part of the Stellenbosch region).  However, Stellenbosch is much larger  than Franschoek and the wineries far more spread out.  Hence, it was only possible to visit a few, which was not all together a bad thing considering the combination of alcohol and my cycling skills.   (BTW, Stellenbosch seems to be some sort of Mtn biking mecca- you see serious bikers all over the mountain roads- my B&B host indeed confirmed this).

One of the things that is interesting about Stellenbosch is how upscale the wineries are generally.  All that I visited were extremely modern, set on beautiful grounds with very elegant tasting areas-

At most wineries, you do not simply belly up to the bar, as in the US or other places, but actually must sit to be served as in an fine restaurant.  And they seem to always charge.  Anway, I do not know how impressed there were to see me pedaling up to and banging on the gate (there is always a gate with a guard too)- and then cycling past all the parked Mercedes and Audis (actually there were plenty of Kias and Toyotas there too to be truthful).  But I always felt like I was a sweaty 2 star person entering a very refined 5 star Chateau (not that it deterred me from nearly free wine).  However, as in all of the Cape area so far, the service was generally great and the servers very friendly. 

But Stellenbosch generally is a very pretty small city with lots of evidence of its Dutch past-

Wrong way Kaulbach (or where is Craze when you need him)?

After a day of mild cycling (Franschoek itself is fairly flat- my kind of wine region), I decided the next day to take a break from wine tasting and hike in the surrounding  mountains of the Jonkershoek Nature Reserve.  Taking a page from the old Craze-Ken playbook, I got up early and arrived at the park promptly at 11am just as the sun was peeking over the horizon (peeking being a relative term).  Yes, there were already a fair number of cars there- indeed I was forced to park a long way from the trail head- but I ascribed that to the fact that most of the hikers were NO doubt camping in the park (tho strangely only a few remained when I returned late in the day) or were crazy early morning hikers who did not mind starting in the dark.  I would not take that foolish risk and insisted on good sunlight. 

In any case, because I had gotten there so early, I seemed to have the trail pretty much to myself, which always bears some directional risk for me....  After a couple of hours, I reached what I believed to be the top of the pass, where I found a family hiking with a guide.  As the trail was 17km long, I thought I really was making great time, but I did think it prudent to make sure the guide and family knew where they were.   So I made a polite inquiry with my map and the guide looked at me and said "No, you are not where you think, but over here (he pointed to a different spot on the map). The top is over there" whereupon he pointed what looked to be a good distance away.  Looking at my map, it appeared possible that I had somehow gone up a different trail than I thought.  Or maybe the guide was wrong; I was not quite sure and certainly did not want to offend the fellow. 

The guide then looked at me and said "A little confused?  Entirely undersandable, as it can happen to beginners.  Not hiked much?"

Me- "No, one of my first times out."  (in South Africa, sotte voce)

"Makes perfect sense."

"Yeah, it is not like I have been doing this for 40 years on 5 continents or something and still cannot read a map with essentially 2 trails on it."

In any case, i think I cleared up all of the guide's confusion and so continued on my (not so) merry way.  The trail condition was something to behold.  Whoever got the contract to build and maintain it I am sure made a solid profit, as I only saw this one very helpful sign-

He was certainly economical with the signage.  The contractor also seemed to believe in 'minimal impact' as I would guess the trail averaged about 6-10 inches in width (I am not exaggerating here).  I literally could not see my feet.  I had read that you should wear pants when hiking in So. Africa, as the bush can be very scratchy, but I hate hiking in pants and can bear some scratches.  However, after a awhile, it truly felt like I was hiking thru brillo pad turnstiles- scratchy does not do it justice. 

Anyway, after helping the guide and family along- I felt my duty to stay close to them so they did not get further lost in this African wilderness- I arrived at the top (the guide nodded 'yes' when I looked over).  The hike was a grind and half- the descent worse than the ascent with the interminable bushwhacking.   Were the views worth it (you could see the ocean far off in one direction)-

South African mountains are known for their wild flowers-

Catholic persecution leads to world''s most beautiful wine region....

I left Cape Town and traveled deep into the wilds of Africa- about 40 miles inland to the beautiful wine region of o Franschoek.  As you all undoubtedly know, Franschoek was founded by French Hugonauts fleeing France after the Edict of Nantes (outlawing Protestantism in France) and arriving in the Cape Town area around 1680.  Leaving religious wars aside for the moment, I think Franschoek may well be the world's most beautiful wine region, though I will have to consult my new Scottish friend for a definitive answer.  It is the prettiest I have seen, prettier even than Mendoza, which has the Andes as backdrop.

The beautiful and touristy village seems set in Austria, dominated by French style architecture and wine estates and populated by Afrikaaners (did not hear any French spoken).  Well, you can be the judge-

I rented a bike and cycled to a few wineries, but if you are lazy, you can take the wine tram (which actually seemed like a fun way to go)-

I thought i saw Geo and M waving to me as cycled by all sweaty.

And, like in Switzerland with Andrea and Carolyn, I managed to stumble (or ride into) a local wedding party getting ready to enter this beautiful old church-

i was rudely shooed a?omg to make way for the bride. Bikers are obviously not  gIVen sufficient respect. 
wAnd I had a nice meal at a French restaurant to end the day in Franschoek-

Snakes and Ken ends Cape Town's drought...

On my second day in Cape Town, I planned to hike famous Table Mtn.  Of course, being naturally prudent, I asked the owner of the B&B where I was staying for any advice.  He asked me whether I was hiking alone.  The guide books advised against, I knew..  I looked around the breakfast area at these happy relaxed, middle aged English guests (tons of Brits here), and said I believe so.  Any reason I should not?

Well, he said, we advise against it for general safety reasons. 

What safety reasons specifically I inquired.

Well, the trail you are going to hike is popular but quite steep and you might twist your ankle, lose your way or perhaps get bitten by a snake.

Snakes!?!  What the heck?  Had I landed back in Australia by mistake?  I thought I had left those  behind!  Would I have to add that to the death pool list now?  Wasn't it long enough already? 

Anyway, I decided snakes were old hat and headed off.  Of course, Cape Town is in the midst of a record drought.  It has not rained much in months...so I thought at least I would have a nice clear hiking day.  Of course it was raining and completely overcast as I started.  Slippery when wet.... With my renowned luck, all they needed was for me to come and do some hiking and voila!  Drought ameliorated (sadly, not really- it rained but not much- just enough to ruin the views).

Anyway, I hiked up- about 2200 ft of vertical- and took the cable car down.  Some pics  of Lions Head and the city-

Looking towards the Cape of Good Hope-

Then for some unknown reason, I got into my head to hike Lions Head as well, as I read it was only 1 hour to the top and I had a little time.  Unsurprisingly, this turned out to be a mistake.  It was longeer, harder and more crowed than I imagined (hundreds were hiking it).   Moreover, the views were similar to a smaller hill that I drove to before, so I gained little for my pain.  Some pics tho (first ones looking to the Cape of GH)-

And our hiking traveler atop LH-

Looking northwest-

Next blog from the most beautiful wine region in the world....

Micro tours and the most beautiful city in the world...

I have found the level or service in SA, or at least the Cape Town area, to be quite high, whether at a hotel, restaurant or B&B.  It is  perhaps better than anywhere else I have ever been (certainly most of Europe or North America).  The So. Africans are so friendly and hospitable.  And this extends to the micro level.  At my first hotel, I was given a tour of the breakfast facility, including the egg, yogurt, fruit and bread areas.  At my first B&B, I was given a tour of my room, including the bathroom and tub.  I think I might have found my way around anyway, but it was nice that they were so solicitous. 

My first day was spent wandering the interesting and colorful streets and public gardens of Cape Town-

And then I took a sunset 'sailing' cruise off shore where one got a great view of the city, famous Table Mtn and striking Lion's Head-

Table Mtn is in the middle and Lion's Head on the right-

We saw southern whales and a Portugese carrak trying to round the Cape of Good Hope for the first time-

While on the sail boat, I met a Scot who seemed to hold strong opinions.  Viewing the stunning vista of Cape Town, he pronounced "Cape Town is the most beautiful city in the world, bar none."

Me- "Beautiful, indeed, but what about Sydney, San Fran or perhaps Hong Kong?:

"Nope, Cape Town it is.:

And then he volunteered -  "And Scotland is the most beautiful country in the world."

me-  "It is?"

"Yup, no question."

"Well, maybe New Zealand or Switzerland would argue that."

"Nope, they have determined it is Scotland."  (whoever they are)

"Global warming?"

"Settled"

family support and death pool

If you are to embark on a solo trip to So. Africa and the dark continent, which is not without some risk, one really can use the support and encouragement of one's family and friends.  In this regard, I am certainly fortunate.

Before I left, whenever any bad news occurred re So. Africa or Zimbabwe, I got almost instant messages from family members alerting me to the potential dangers and what was perhaps in store for me.  When there was news recently of a poacher being killed, eaten and then decapitated by lions near Kruger NP, I got emails right away with grisly pictures of the poacher's remains and head.  My son in law urged me not to take any bathroom breaks on the hiking safari.  ,Frequent stories of political unrest, tourist muggings, statistics on hippo killings, ANC killings and the like, were all forwarded, no doubt designed to set me at ease.   Somehow no good news was ever sent.

When I told my support group that I was thinking of doing one of the world's highest zip line near Cape Town- see youtube video of Cape Canopy tours- I got statements like 'With your fear of heights?'  "I wouldn't do it'  "How are you going to navigate that hanging bridge much less the zip line?'  'What if you panic?

But I think my brother George  captured the family sentiment nearly perfectly with his suggestion of a 'death pool' re the trip with different possibilities including-

-     Killed and eaten by lions like the poacher
-     Killed by a charging rhino on walking safari
-     Killed by muggers in Cape Town while fleeing
-    Killed by somehow landing on the wrong side of an ANC faction
_    Killed by malaria or other disease
-    Killed by hippo when leaning over rail on dinner cruise on the Zambezi River
-   Killed by fright on the zip line
-   Killed by notoriously bad SA drivers

Geo was hoping to get the lions if he got the top spot in the pool ( which he opined would be at least an interesting way to go).

Needless to say, I am grateful for such a support group. 

Some pics in next blog.